Surely one of the best touches, when you arrive in the little town of Imlil in Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains on your way to Kasbah Toubkal, is the deeply charming mule, with its attendant muleteer, waiting to carry your bags for you.  There’s no road to the front door of this eyrie-like Kasbah, so  instead, you park in the dusty little town and are met by the mule and his friend who load your bags into colourful panniers and set off up the hillside.

There follows a steady climb of 10 minutes or so, that takes you gently zigzagging through groves of walnut trees to your destination, perched eyrie-like on a hill top looking at the snowy summit  of North Africa’s highest mountain.  You're actually only 45 minutes from Marrakech, but it feels like a forgotten world (which probably explains why Scorsese chose to film his movie Kandun about the Dalai Lama here).  The sound of the Muezzin’s call to prayer rolling down the valleys in the half light is an indelible memory of staying here…

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