As the warm afternoon light deepens to a long dusk, you set off in single file behind your guide. The sounds of crickets and birds calling around you, and the musky scent of dry grass and dust fill the senses. Out here in the Luangwa Valley, you follow paths made by animals; worn trails to and from water used by impala, hippo and elephant alike. Stepping out into the wide sandy bed of the Luwi River, you head towards your camp-site for the night.
Later, you sit around the glowing coals with your feet in the white sand, warm from the day’s sun. A leopard saws just a few hundred metres away, and the fleeting shadows of nightjars swoop across the night sky. The bedroll is snug with crisp white sheets, and lying gazing at the stars through the thin gauze of the mosquito net, you are filled with childish excitement. Close by, the scout watches as a hyena passes, heading out to forage.
The Luangwa Valley is scenic, with rich wildlife that concentrates along the river. It's one of the best places you can go for a walking safaris. The guides are primarily Zambian, and one real advantage of a trip here, is that most of the camps are very small, highly personal and in great locations.
Catherine's long experience of, and enthusiasm for Africa, makes her a mine of travel information. Add to the mix her vivacious character and inscrutable attention to detail and there are few people you'd rather have plan your holiday.