Under the stars
Whenever I manage to get a clear view of the night sky, I find there’s something deeply emotive about staring into the inky depths of the firmament. To lose one’s self among the constellations and feel that fleeting sense of perspective - “I am merely a dot” - is a wonderfully grounding experience. At such times, it’s hard to think of convincing reasons why our difference to the rest of the animal kingdom is anything but superficial.
So you might think that to contemplate these things in a context where you are demonstrably only a very small (and edible) part of the prolific animal life would be nothing short of terrifying. And yet if I had to choose a single experience of Africa – my desert island choice – I would forego game drives, I’d even let you keep walks. For me, the choice would be an easy one - to spend the night out under the stars. Take away all the frills (well, actually let's not be too hasty, leave the hot shower, cool box of ice, wonderful food and ideally someone to prepare it) and give me a couple of lanterns and a bedroll and let nature provide the rest.
As a guide in the Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania, I was lucky enough to lead walking safaris backed up with fly camps at night. Camp was usually pitched on a dry sand river bed, and we’d aim to arrive on foot as the sun went down. The last few hundred metres was usually on sand, so we’d kick off our shoes and go barefoot, silently. The combination of the feel of the cool sand on your feet, the caramelly smell of the evening air and the inimitable stillness of the dusk is something that I will never forget. Compared to a noisy clattering arrival by Land Rover, It felt like quietly slipping into a pool without making a ripple – as opposed to hurling yourself in with a mighty splash.
So in the years since Africa ceased to be our permanent home, during which we’ve been lucky enough to return to safari camps far and wide across southern and eastern Africa, it’s always that rarest of ingredients that I’ve sought to find. This isn’t a case of refuting luxury or requiring anybody to wear a hair shirt, what I find myself searching for is really an approach. A willingness to recognise that whatever style of camp you choose - splendid luxury, or Spartan simplicity - the real show is going on outside.
More articles that you might find helpful
Walking Safaris in the Selous (video)
Southern Tanzania - Ruaha and Selous
Tanzania visa requirements
The best game areas in Tanzania
When's the best time to visit Mahale?
For videos, articles, ideas and news from Africa:
Have a look at our blog at safarigeek.com
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