When owner Colin Francombe talks you through the panorama from the verandah at Ol Malo, it feels as though you're standing on a great map of Kenya. Some 100 kilometres to the south is Mt Kenya. A little closer are the Lolldaiga Hills, and a short distance to the east, Samburu lies just behind a ridge of hills. Go north from here and you enter Kenya's wild Northern Frontier district.
Ol Malo lies on the edge of Laikipia, this area of Kenya feels tantalizingly like the edge of civilisation. Ol Malo was one of the first of Kenya's bush homes, so of course a large part of staying here is getting a taste of what it's like to actually live here, as the Francombes do.
Colin, Rocky and their son Andrew are relaxed and affable hosts, so you quickly feel as though you've known them for a while. Conversation is easy and, inevitably when you enter a world as different as this is compared to most people's lives, there are numerous stories of animals, people and places. Ol Malo is still very much a home; the family dogs are much in evidence (they're well behaved so you won't be bothered by them if dogs aren't your thing) and family photos hang on the walls, giving a glimpse of enchanted African childhoods.
Wildlife is not a highlight here, but you do stand the chance of seeing a real gem such as wild dog, if you have the patience to look. Principally this is somewhere to soak up the intoxicating and rarified atmosphere of this part of Africa and just take it all as it comes. If you take this approach it'll knock your socks off.