Sabuk

Sabuk is a chance to share in the charmed life some safari people seem to live in the Kenyan bush. At its best, life in the bush has a mesmerizing sense of freedom, wildness and plain fun. This is very much evident in the fabric of Sabuk; it's design, and the sorts of things you're encouraged to do here.

The relaxed but experienced owner of Sabuk, Verity Williams, was one of Kenya's first female guides, so to say she's at home in the bush is something of an understatement. She's part of a long line of Kenyan women who have excelled in this overwhelmingly male environment and it's immediately obvious how much pleasure she gets from being here.

Her new lodge's lovely location, extrovert design and potential for wildlife action is the perfect setting for a host of almost childlike pleasures. At Sabuk, you can take these pleasures in small portions, mixing time spent relaxing at the charming gnarled wood and pebble lodge, with brief moments of excitement on morning and afternoon (or all-day) forays. If you're up for real adventure, you can go the whole hog and steal some of Verity's 28 camels (and their Samburu camel men) and trek through this wild and beautiful country for anything from a quick one nighter to a major ten days.

Sabuk has a stunning setting on a wide curl on the Ewaso N'giro (pronounced Waso Nero) river at a point where it drops about 70 feet down a series of undulating valleys. The Waso, as it's nicknamed, is a miracle river - snaking down from the slopes of the Aberdares and Mount Kenya, watering the harsh country to the north. By the time it gets to Sabuk, it has a child's story book quality: fringed with spreading fig trees and rich Phoenix palms, the rusty brown water tumbles down over giant boulders and fills your ears with sound of rushing water.

Sabuk is a very pleasing destination in its own right or a fine staging post between intense safari days in Samburu and the Mara, a chance to stretch your legs and your safari muscles.