Serian, one of the prettiest Mara camps, is strung along the gently sloping banks of the Mara River. Water is such a luxury in the heat of Africa - and you can see the river from every part of the camp, it's soft on the eyes, and the ears with lovely views beyond to the Oloololo escarpment. It seems like this camp might have the best of both worlds.
It's only half an hour from the Mara Reserve proper with its sheer volume of game, but being outside the restrictions of the actual park, there's a chance to ditch the car for a while on foot. This makes a big difference here because Alex Walker who owns the camp, and his partner Francisca Sommelatte, love being in the bush. These are two people who've been around it most of their lives and you can tell it's very natural to them to be there; this makes it fun to be a part of their world. Alex found the site when he was 11 years old. His family used to take a little tent and some friends and go camping here. 28 years on he's built a lovely place to stay.
In the main camp, the seven tents are all exquisitely done up, with cream and white bed-tents sitting on timber decks, all with ensuite bathrooms and solar power. It is, by design, on the rawer side of wild and tries to minimize the barrier between you and the world outside. Anyone new to the bush would find this either thrilling or alarming depending on your temperament - or most likely a combination of the two. This is both the reason we really like it and the reason we wouldn't recommend it for everybody.
There is also a small private camp set up close by which takes this wilderness immersion concept further still. Ngare Serian has just four tents and being entirely exclusive, with private game drives and access to 4000 acres of exclusive use walking area is absolute heaven for families - particularly those who want to expose their kids to that safari tingle, whilst still getting them home in one piece.
More basic still and climbing further up the tingle scale is their private mobile camp. Nkorombo Camp has just five Meru style tents, bucket showers and short drop toilets and is only available on an exclusive basis, for a minimum of two people. A perfect option for those seeking out a semblance of proper camping within the Maasai Mara.
One of their favourite things, if particular guests feel adventurous enough, is just leaving camp behind, taking a few mattresses and a frying pan, crossing the river and sleeping out in the open air, with no trimmings. This might include a night in Serians own treehouse on Sugoroi Hill, basic but fantastic and very memorable. There's a simple, transformational thrill in doing this kind of thing in Africa, stripping away what you think you need, and just throwing yourself out there. But don't worry you're in safe hands too - Alex used to be a professional hunter and Francisca is a trained Africa walking guide.