Mwaleshi, owned by John and Carol Coppinger from Remote Africa was one of the first camps ever in the North Luangwa National park. John has made the Luangwa valley and safaris his life and has trained up guides who are quite outstanding and have been with him for many, many years. This is reflected in his intimate and friendly camps, which also include Tafika in the south Luangwa as well as the Chikoko Trail camps.
Overlooking the Mwaleshi River this camp is just heaven on earth. It is very simple with four reed huts, all utilising the wonderfully twisted dead branches of the mopane trees. The huts are all very open and are quite close together. Reed bars are put over the windows at night. There is a flush loo and shower with hot water mainly provided in the evening. There is a central dining and bar area, again all very open.
Ernst, a really charming, unassuming South African who has been in Zambia for the last 10 years, has been running Mwaleshi since 2004 and he and his great crew, including Special and Lawrence, have built a wonderful, no frills camp that really captures the essence of the bush and completely complements the atmosphere of the north park.
You can paddle in the river in front of camp (although have to watch out for the elephant and stay within seeing your toes depth). Game comes to the open area opposite the camp to graze. You walk out from the camp twice a day, either over the river or behind camp.
Delicious food is produced by Brightwell with the fresh produce from Tafika’s huge kitchen garden. It is just heaven lying in bed looking up at the stars through the trees and listening to the leopard, lion and hyeana call. In the morning you check the spore for visitors in the camp and search the opposite bank for the wilddog that may or may not be there.
The airstrip is about 15 minutes by car from Mwaleshi. A landrover will collect your luggage on arrival and you will then walk from Mwaleshi airstrip 45 mins into camp. There is hardly any road system in the park so walking is essential.
This was by far our most favourite camp although there were quite a lot of mopane flies around, mosquitos and tsetse so if anyone does not like bugs it is not the place to go, but you really do feel as though you are living with nature.
We saw a huge three and a half meter python on our walk, we waded through the Mwaleshi, saw hippo fighting very seriously – blood everywhere. Wild dog were on the opposite bank, a leopard was right by our room. It is an absolutely magical place and for anyone who really enjoys the bush and being remote, Mwaleshi is the place to be.