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Shooting Star, Zanzibar Coast

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Shooting Star Inn is a good owner-run hotel set in a tropical garden a few metres above a beautiful white beach, just north of Kiwengwa, on the east coast of Zanzibar.


Though its grounds are quite small - perched as it is on a coral bluff on the sea's edge - they've been well designed to provide privacy for each of the ten cottages all of which have sea views. These rooms, whitewashed and thatched, are cool, comfortable and simply furnished. Some are two-storey family suites: large doubles down below for the parents with fans and air-con, big double doors opening onto a verandah, while the kids get to sleep in a fun attic room upstairs. There are also four more smaller (and cheaper) rooms in a terrace looking inwards, which are a bit dark and tight on space and might disappoint - though their rate reflects the difference.

There's a styley whitewashed bar that serves great fresh juice and cocktails, joined to a sociable lounge area, which is thatch-roofed, but open on all sides, allowing the tropical sea breeze to waft through. Right next this is an open dining area, with simple tables and chairs, and garden on two sides. These areas do lack a bit of space and privacy, and there's nowhere to have a really peaceful bask, but luckily you have your private verandahs for that, or you can head to their nicely rickety driftwood bar on the beach below.

It's the lovely pool that takes a prize, though: not that big, but perfectly formed: curling around, and over, the edge of the bluff, genuinely infinity with the cooling waters blending into the impossible turquoise blues of the ocean below. One could (and did) loll there for hours, watching the sea dhows sail out beyond the breakers, and fishermen combing the reef.

The hotel is owner-run, so the hospitality is personal without being in your face, and the service natural. Food is simple and tasty - with a limited menu choice, but always including a fresh seafood option.

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