Fundu Lagoon
Location - West coast of Pemba, in reach of Mesali island
Accommodation - 15 bandas spread over the hillside, and counting
Experience - Relaxed, quite hip, nice pool and spa
Price Guide - $325 - 625 pppn
Fundu Lagoon is one of the top luxury beach locations off the Tanzania coast. It has an understated cool feel and is by far the best location on Pemba Island. The lodge is a perfect compliment to the country's best safari lodges, places like Sand Rivers and Jongomero).
The hotel is set on the west coast of Pemba Island well away from any other developments; it's built up a small hill, with some rooms along the water front and others up the side of the hill. All rooms over look the water and this is one of the few places in East Africa where you can watch the sun set over the sea. Read more?
The whole place is well designed and looks good - there's a long and much photographed jetty that sticks out a fair way into the sea and looks straight out of a Bacardi ad, and there's a dining area and bar half way out, which is really nice at night for dining and drinking under the stars. Food and service are as good as you'd expect from a place like this and the whole operation runs smoothly.
The beach in front of the hotel isn't as good as some beaches, it's quite narrow and leafy with mangroves along the back, but this is more than made up for by Mesali island which is only a short distance from the hotel in the truly impressive speed boats that the lodge uses (250 horse power engines and consoles like aircraft, all very 007). For those who can't take such excitement there is a newly built swimming pool on one of the highest parts of the plot, with amazing views, cool sea breezes and an equally cool crowd.
Mesali is a nature reserve where the beaches are pure white and stunning and you can spend much of the day snorkelling from the beach or lying on the sand. The hotel has a good diving operation and there are some beautiful dives. Nowadays the trips to Mesali are no longer included in the cost of staying at Fundu, so you should be prepared to pay a small extra fee for these, which will be worth it.
The rooms at Fundu lagoon are all within large safari tents,which we initially felt might have been a disappointment as many people may have just done the luxury camp thing in the bush, however, the rooms are comfortable and airy with well equipped en-suite bathrooms and the design works well. Fundu also offers dhow sailing from the hotel, meandering around in the sun set, drink in hand is a superbly laid back way to spend an evening unwinding after a stressful day on the beach…
Location - Pemba Island
Many would say that Pemba is far, far more beautiful than Zanzibar, and it's true that its seas are some of the loveliest in the world, and the network of islands that hangs like jewels in a necklace down its eastern coast create an exciting and exotic coastline that looks like something from a child's storybook, a place to dream of pirates and treasure, and castaways.
Zanzibar is not just one island, it is an archipelago of many islands, large and small. Pemba is the second largest island in this group, and very much a partner to Zanzibar politically. The difference between Pemba and Zanzibar however, is enormous.
Pemba has experienced nothing of the surge in tourist development that Zanzibar has in the last decade, and this isn't because it's not nice enough. Hoteliers that have tried to set up there - and many have - know that Pemba is very challenging , with huge resistance, even suspicion, at a high governmental level. There have been many failed attempts. None but the most determined, and perhaps passionate, have survived, and at the moment that means there are just two international hotels on the whole island.
This of course makes Pemba all the more special - as long as you're not in search of nightlife and lots of hotels. Much of the main island, which unlike Zanzibar is patterned with steep hills and valleys, is still covered with natural forest; where Zanzibar is mostly cocunut plantation on the coastline, here wild woodland trails right down onto the beach. The beaches are glorious and empty, and most of the many tiny offshore islands are uninhabited. Even the roads are practically empty of traffic apart from the odd moped, or the ancient timber Pemba buses which wind indomitably around the island.
Pemba wouldn't be for everybody, it can hardly be accused of vibrancy, but it is a fantastic retreat for the world weary, and one of the most beautiful islands on the African coast. Jump to page?
More articles that you might find helpful
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