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Matemwe Bungalows

Location - on cliffs, overlooking Matemwe beach in eastern Zanzibar
Accommodation - 12 rooms
Experience - Good and reliable mid range Zanzibar beach hotel
Price Guide - $265 - 310 pppn

We love Matemwe Bungalows. It has bundles of personality and excellent standards in a lovely setting overlooking the Mnemba Island, on the north east coast of Zanzibar island. After an imaginative and generous makeover a couple of years ago, it has emerged as a high-class sassy and original hotel which belies its rather mundane name, with enough flare for younger, and comfort for older independent travelers.

Matemwe Bungalows is basically for couples who are looking for a bit of exclusivity, but not too much gloss.  It suits those who enjoy high standards, even flare, but also admire character. Matemwe isn't five-star in the conventional sense - no TVs, shining chrome or hairdryers here - but one of a new breed of sophisticated hotels that value other things more. In a crowded, processed world where luxury comes off the shelf, qualities like privacy, authenticity and natural beauty come at a premium, and are well understood here at Matemwe Bungalows.

Matemwe is perhaps not for really small children, with cliffs to fall off and stairs to tumble down everywhere -and that ever so slightly hushed atmosphere which could make a parent with boisterous kids rather neurotic. The setting of Matemwe Bungalows is one of the best: a relatively remote, ragged little Ras - or coral cliff - about twenty feet above an unspoilt, and meltingly pretty stretch of ocean and beach . The twelve rooms straggle one by one right along the Ras edge, so each room has great sea views. Dawn on our very private verandah was sublime: sunrise across a turquoise sea, the sound of waves breaking out on the reef, and a flotilla of ngalawas (dug-out canoes with dhow sails) sliding past after a night's fishing. Behind, a lower path to the rooms winds through a quirky little garden of tropical plants, ponds, coral crevasses and marine sculptures.

At the heart of Matemwe Bungalows are two lovely swimming pools, not large or particularly deep but just the job: an infinity pool that goes right to the edge of the Ras, and another one below, with its own falls. Around the pool edge is timber decking for serious tanning, an open lounge bar, and cushy chill out area for sundowners over the ocean. There's more space to relax in a small lounge at the end of the dining room, and under some rough beach umbrellas on the beach itself.  Read more?

Location - Zanzibar

Zanzibar along with nearby Pemba Island lies just off the coast of Tanzania and is a heady mix of tropical island life and historic Swahili culture that has beckoned travellers for centuries. During our years of living and working in Tanzania, we often took time out here, and have wound our way through Zanzibar's crumbling streets and padded along the miles of soft white beaches working out how to make the most of this fabulous island. Jump to page?

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