Kutandala Camp
Location - Overlooking the Mwaleshi River
Accommodation - 3 reed and thatch cottages sleeping 6 people
Experience - Walking safaris
Price Guide - $500 - 550 pppn
Kutandala is one of those places that's tough to photograph, because there isn't much there. But that's the beauty of this place. Rod and Guz Tether have created an absolute gem in Kutandala. It's set in a remote part of North Luangwa and doesn't compromise itself in any way. It most certainly isn't everyone's cup of tea, but for those who appreciate true immersion in a totally pristine part of the bush, this camp is very hard to beat.
Arrival at the camp gives a clue to what this place is all about. The open land cruiser that picks you up from the airstrip parks on the opposite bank of the Mwaleshi River from camp and guests wade through the clear and surprisingly warm water to reach the camp. It’s a wonderful initiation and straight away gets you into the right frame of mind.
The camp itself is stripped down to the absolute minimum number of structures necessary. The bar is a tree. Simple as that, there’s no roof other than that afforded by the spreading branches, and the dining table sits below another tree. Various branches are hung with book shelves, creating a comprehensive bush library.
Kutandala is all about what is happening outside, around you and at night above your head. It is a great achievement, not least because there is considerable pressure to conform to various standards of international travel these days. Kutandala sticks to it’s guns and is a remarkable experience because of it.
You can never be fully prepared for the food at Kutandala. Every body you meet on the way here talks with hushed reverence about Guz’s food and even so, when you get here, you cannot but be truly impressed by the quality of what appears from the most basic of bush kitchens; tuna mousse, home made gnocchi, buboti and wonderful home grown salad.
The rooms here are truly basic. Be under no illusions, these are mud floors and reed walls. The front of the room is open, so breeze and view onto the river are maximised. The bathroom is en suite, with a flush loo and very effective bush shower; a series of drums and pipes enclosed, Swiss family Robinson style in thatch. The door to the room is a vertical mat of reed that is pulled across the door way at night. Rod takes great care to show you exactly how the door must be latched with a loop of sisal rope over a sturdy reed. This no doubt to prevent animals accidentally wandering into the room at night. Read more?
Location - North Luangwa
North Luangwa is relatively little visited and is principally about walking. Slightly smaller that its counterpart, the South Luangwa National Park, it is far more remote and access is through very few safari operators who have had permission to do walking safaris in the area. The park remains a pristine wilderness and feels extremely secluded; unlike certain areas of South Luangwa, you are unlikely to see evidence of other visitors. Walking is the major focus in this park, so if this doesn't appeal, North Luangwa may not be the place for you. Jump to page?
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