There are more than 90 species of bird, including the endemic helmet vanga as well as numerous exotic and brightly coloured amphibians. Much of the wildlife can be hard to spot in comparison to places like Andasibe, but the showy behaviour of the headline act – humpback whales – more than makes up for the shyness of the rest of the animals in this part of the world.

Humpbacks whales migrate here from Antarctic waters, gathering in large numbers to breed and mate in the shallow protected waters of Antongil Bay. Their elaborate behaviour makes for some of the most exciting and dramatic wildlife viewing imaginable.

The only way to reach Masoala is by boat and the journey from Maroansetra can be an excellent place to encounter the whales. Very little prepares you for your first encounter.

You might spot the tell-tale balloon shaped “blow” that can be as high as 3 metres and easily visible for many hundreds of meters, but frequently the first indication that the whale is there at all will be an elaborate piece of surface behaviour. Tail or fin slaps are common, where the whale lies on its back of front repeatedly slamming its fins or fluke onto the surface of the water with a loud report.

But humpbacks are perhaps best known for full breaches which see the entire whale (all 40 tons) launching at full speed out of the water only to land with a detonation like a depth charger exploding.

If you’re staying at Masoala then there are chances to hop into a kayak and watch as humpbacks glide past, occasionally just a few metres away. Alternatively you can watch from the comfort of the restaurant at the stunning Masoala Forest Lodge, which sticks out into the sea with a clear view of passing whales.

Masoala forms the eastern shore of Antongil Bay, one of the most productive bays in the Indian Ocean and an area of extraordinary fecundity fed by nine rivers. The bay covers almost 3,000 km2 (and includes a significant marine reserve along the shore of Masoala) and sits at the point where the South Equatorial Current divides around the east coast of the island.

Apart from the whales, the relatively shallow protected waters of Antongil along with huge numbers of pelagic fish make this a vital mating and nursery ground for a number of key marine species including 19 species of shark. In 2015 a new shark sanctuary was established in Antongil Bay with the aim of handing responsibility for management of marine areas into the hands of local communities that have a vested interest in their longterm sustainability.