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Serengeti with the Financial Times

Finding unspoilt corners of the Serengeti

Serengeti: the track less beaten. Millions of animals migrate across the region each year. Horatio Clare heads in the opposite direction”

Financial Times

Alex travelled with travel writer Horatio Clare and his family specifically to seek out some of the quiet Serengeti corners and to illustrate quite how much space, wilderness and prime game viewing people overlook by only following the migration

We began at Ngorongoro: "no reproduction catches the 3,000ft depth of the crater, its peace and might, and the rock and roll of thunder. A storm was trapped inside, its detonations echoing off green walls. Grey dots below were elephants. The black mites were buffalo. We might have been on another planet and it was only Monday morning." [Horatio Clare - FT]

Next we drove down into the short grass plains of the Serengeti - calving ground for some half million female wildebeest just a few weeks before hand. "Now we met the migration. First a dozen wildebeest, then 100, then 1,000. Every other tree held a steppe eagle, gazing over the herds like wedding guests contemplating a feast. Thermals of vultures were rising, swallows hunted flies, and here were jackals, and there white storks, so that the plain was everywhere alive. Cumulus clouds 30,000ft above made the tiny area around us and the actual scale of things seem impossible to correlate, the difference between a window box and a universe."  [Horatio Clare - FT]

And finally we headed north away from the crowds: "We drove north to Piaya, our vehicle a tiny human speck in an ocean of undulating horizons, as though we were the first to see the granite kopjes and the plains, so rich in animals: pronking gazelle, jumping with all four feet, and zebra resting their chins on each other’s backs. Thunderstorms marched the plain behind us. Perhaps only the Galápagos give a similar sense of a world lingering at its beginning."

The journey

2 nights at Entamanu Ngorongoro - a chance to see the Crater, but also the dramatic Ngorongoro Highlands

Ngorongoro Crater

 

Ngorongoro Crater

Unique is a thoroughly overused word, but it really does apply to the Ngorongoro Crater. This is the largest unbroken caldera in...

3 nights in the Southern Serengeti and the tail-end of the migration calving

Nomad’s Serengeti Ndutu

Nomad’s Serengeti Ndutu

Nomad's Ndutu Seasonal Camp moves into the Ndutu woodland on the Serengeti Southern Plains between December and March as the...

2 nights in Northern Serengeti - leaving the crowds far behind

Mkombe’s House

Mkombe’s House

Newly opened in mid 2015 Mkombe's House is the only private house on the Serengeti. Situated amongst the picturesque Wogakuria...

Quotation Mark
We saw no other travellers. Instead, on the morning of our last full day, we found elephant and a tribe of iron-black buffalo attended by egrets, oxpeckers and swallows. It was the perfect daybreak, like the first summer morning. ”

Horatio Clare - Financial Times

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Our experienced travellers include:

Andrea Hulme
Andrea Hulme
Alex Edwards
Alex Edwards
Rod Tether
Rod Tether

It takes genuine local knowledge to craft trips that go beyond the ordinary. All of us at Natural High have over 20 years’ experience in the countries we offer. We’ve lived there, worked there and arranged countless one-off journeys for clients. We live to travel – and love to share our tips on what’s really worth doing. For expert advice (and a traveller’s tale or two), speak to one of our team. They’ll be happy to let you in on their travel secrets, and help you plan a tailor-made trip that’s truly unforgettable.

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