Two of Africa’s great rivers rise in Zambia – the Congo and Zambezi. Travelling from the Luangwa Valley to the Bangweulu Wetlands gives a sense of them both – and showcases just how different they are.
Rod recently travelled back to his old haunts in Zambia with Travel & Leisure magazine.
The Luangwa is classic big-game country – where lions prowl the savannah, following great herds of buffalo while leopard and wild dog pursue smaller prey. Where elephants and giraffe abound, and the rivers and lagoons are fat with hippo. Also home to many authentic and sometimes raw but comfortable bush camps. All comfortable and authentic, these camps always provide a unique and brilliant bush experience. The camps are simple affairs and revolve around getting out on two feet in sensational remote locations. Simple, they are but you’ll still enjoy a hot shower, a proper bed with crisp sheets and delicious food cooked in earth ovens.
The Bangweulu has an altogether different vibe, more enigmatic but no less impressive with masses of wildfowl and tens of thousands of lechwe living in the place where there the “water meets the sky”. Also the stronghold of the shoebill – one of the most sought-after birds in the world and we found the expedition to see them certainly takes some doing and a fair bit of wading!
Quotations taken directly from Travel & Leisure article from their August edition.
Headline photo: Patrick Njobvu.
IT FELT LIKE I WAS ENTERING A DRAMA IN WHICH HUMANS HAD DECENT PARTS, BUT NOT NECESSARILY LEAD ROLES.”
South Luangwa
Walking in big game country
“We began in Big Five territory, at South Luangwa Natural Park, where the family-run Shenton Safaris operates two long-established camps. One of the oldest national parks in Zambia, South Luangwa is an outstanding model of the traditional relationship between tourism, community, and wildlife.”
South Luangwa
Sleep out on the banks of the Mwamba River
“Our home in South Luangwa was Mwamba Camp, a cluster of thatch-and-bamboo huts on the banks of the Mwamba River, which runs along the park’s eastern edge. Each of the four guest chalets is open to the sky, allowing night breezes to take the place of air-conditioning. From my bed I stared upward, through a mosquito net and a layer of mesh, to branches seemingly hung with stars. The whistling of tree frogs and the whooping of hyenas made up the soundscape until dawn, when doves and coucals took over and I was summoned to breakfast.”
South Luangwa
Walking in the Luangwa
The Luangwa Valley has earnt a well-deserved reputation for brilliant walking safaris – the opportunity to strike out of camp with your expert private guide with a chance to track big game on foot is an experience not to be missed. Leopard are particularly abundant here with other star attractions including lion, wild dog, Thornicroft’s giraffe and thousands upon thousands of hippo. Find out more about walking safaris in Zambia.
Bangweulu Wetlands
A short hop to the swamps
“Bangweulu is a miraculous, 2,300-square-mile expanse of marsh in northern Zambia. It is also one of the last homes of the iconic, elusive shoebill—a prehistoric-looking bird with an eight-foot wingspan found only in the remotest swamps of Africa. Few people have seen one.”
Bangweulu Wetlands
A front row seat
Shoebill Camp is perfectly positioned on the banks of the expansive Bangweulu Wetlands standing on a rare piece of dry land. The camp is alive with birds and the sounds of thousands of lechwe sloshing through the shallow waters makes for a peaceful, relaxing stay in camp.
Bangweulu Wetlands
Time in the swamps
“I did love Bangweulu, utterly, from the first moment. I loved the meditative peace of the place, the state of primordial simplicity it put me in. I loved the volleys of birds that busy the air and the outlines of the fishermen punting their canoes. From across the reedbeds, I caught the cries of waterfowl and the distant voices of fishermen, women, and children (many of whom, I was told, have never seen a motorized vehicle).”
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